Affluent Savvy
Affluent Savvy
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challah The round challah (pronounced khala) is largely a ceremonial bread eaten by the Jews on the Sabbath. “The word challah means a loaf of bread and it is considered a blessing to bake the bread in Jewish homes, where a bit of it is always set aside as an offering to god,” a guide tells us.
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Read More »In Israel , the sight and smell of bread is everywhere. Along cobbled alleyways, cavernous bakeries resonate with the roar of fire and the clang of metallic trays full of freshly baked bread. In the old town of Jerusalem , push carts groan under the weight of za’atar-infused breads that are beautiful to behold — shiny, golden, braided. Israeli food markets brim with freshly baked pita, laffa , challah, ash tanur, kubaneh and taboon pastries At the Carmel Market in Tel Aviv , women from the Druze community crank out laffa, a bread that is like the roomali roti and has its fragile translucence. The Druze are an ethnic minority in Israel — and cook delicious breads. To make laffa, known as the Druze pita, the pliant dough is spun theatrically between hands, slapped on a pillow and then flipped onto a dome-shaped oven on which it browns and bubbles occasionally but mostly stays flat and pliable. Once done, it is taken off, folded, smeared with za’atar and stuffed with a variety of fillings as per customers’ choice — succulent kebabs, labneh (cheese dip) and hummus masabacha made with whole chickpeas, paprika, a shot of hot sauce and lemony tahini.Za’atar-infused pita breadAt Mahane Yehuda Market in Jerusalem, a souk established in the late 1800s, we are assailed by the smell of bread, fruits, vegetables, olives and spices. Vendors holler out, inviting us to sample their wares. Some of the shopkeepers are Hasidic Jews who live in the old conservative quarter of Jerusalem, called Mea Shearim (100 Gates).Round, braided challahFollowing a lifestyle that has almost remained untouched for 200 years, this community bakes a traditional bread called matzo following the complicated rules of the Sabbath, using wheat, barley, rye or oat flour.Nothing showcases the diversity and plurality of Israeli society better than bread. When Jews returned to the Holy Land from over 120 countries, they brought with them foods and recipes. These culinary practises have commingled with other Jewish recipes, kosher dietary laws and the country’s native ingredients to create a complex cuisine anchored in the uniqueness of Israeli society itself.A variety of breads sold in Tel Aviv. There’s a bread for every occassion in IsraelThanks to the huge melting pot of immigrants, there’s a bread for every occasion. There’s even a different shape for different holy days. The round challah (pronounced khala) is largely a ceremonial bread eaten by the Jews on the Sabbath. “The word challah means a loaf of bread and it is considered a blessing to bake the bread in Jewish homes, where a bit of it is always set aside as an offering to god,” a guide tells us.Bread, sold on the streets of Old Jerusalem.So much so that it has now become customary for Jews who knead dough at home to burn a piece of it as a celestial offering. All kosher bakeries do the same — they pull out a piece of dough from each batch, and throw it on the floor of the oven for good luck and a life of plenitude.In Jaffa, a 4,000-year-old port city perched on cliff tops along the Mediterranean coast in western Israel, I discover an enchanting world of ancient bakeries that seem to have been crafting bread for ages. Dimly lit, with blazing ovens, they appear straight out of a Dickensian movie. At one such bakery, the baker invites me in to watch him make the ash tanur, which translates into life of the oven.Ash tanur is a hybrid of a pita and a pizza crust. Made from unleavened, sugarless sourdough, it is shaped like the womb, he tells me. I watch him drape the round bread over a pillow like an artist and then stick it carefully against the oven's wall. It is left to hiss and bubble until it acquires a gossamer golden hue and its sourdough air pockets are trapped with enough warmth and flavour. Then it is pulled out and brushed with olive oil and za'atar. As I bite into the bread, my mouth is flooded with a flavour so delicate that it is almost an aroma. Never ever have I eaten a bread so exquisite.(The writer is a Delhi based journalist)
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